I celebrated my birthday last week, but then, based on the hundreds of celebratory messages I received via Twitter and Facebook, if you’re bothering to come here, you probably already knew that. And while passing along best wishes for the day, many wondered in what foodie way I planned to celebrate. (I guess I’ve developed a reputation.)

I didn’t have time to tell you here until now, because prepping for our annual daffodil party Saturday (about which more later) took precedence over pretty much everything, but Irene and I went out for a birthday dinner at Family Meal, a Bryan Voltaggio restaurant which we first visited in July 2012 within a few weeks of its opening. It serves quality comfort food, and we try to eat there as often as we can when we have a reason to pass through Frederick, Maryland, but this time, my birthday was reason enough for a special trip.

I’ve been working my way through the menu ever since Family Meal opened, so except for the dessert, I made sure to only order dishes I hadn’t tried before. We started with a smoked scallop with sweet potato, chard, and green tomato.

This being Family Meal, I expected a succulent scallop, but not one that jaw-droppingly humongous. An excellent starter.

Next came an heirloom carrot-beet salad with horseradish, goat cheese, and cider dressing. The beet dish we were served New Year’s Eve at another Voltaggio restaurant, Range, was an edible work of art, so we knew we’d be in good hands.

Beautiful plating, so we took a moment to admire it, but then, of course, demolished the chef’s handwork and gobbled it down.

After that, we were surprised by an extra dish we hadn’t ordered—pork mosaic with heirloom bean, meyer lemon, and watercress. Chef knew it was my birthday, and according to the manager on duty, wanted to make sure we got enough to eat.

Interestingly, though I’d had the dish as an entree once before, the recipe had been changed slightly so that it now came with a top crust. That’s one thing I like about Family meal. Not only are there always new dishes to try, but existing recipes are constantly tinkered with to enhance the culinary experience.

For our entrees, Irene chose the meat loaf with fork-crushed potatoes and mushroom gravy …

… while I went for the shrimp and grits with andouille, roasted peppers, and scallion. Poor Irene found the meat loaf a little too peppery for her palate, which had been hankering for something milder. It was just right for mine, though, which meant I appreciated the kick of my own dish, one that sadly, she didn’t dare taste.

For dessert, Irene went for the Smith island roll (salted toffee, fudge, creme fraiche), which I’d already tried …

… while I once more ordered the banana-butterscotch pudding (with spiced shortbread, cheesecake mousse, banana) which I’d loved so much the first time I had it that I knew I wanted one to be the finale for my birthday meal.

As usual, when we left, I had only one question … how soon will I be able to return?